Amid a number of new Royal Oak references launching on Friday, Audemars Piguet has thrown a wild card into the mix with the new [RE]Master02 Selfwinding, a tribute to an asymmetric modernist work from the 1960s (model 5159BA).
In 2020, the brand launched [RE]A masterful collection reimagining the 1943 chronograph, limited to 500 pieces. The revival concept celebrated the opening of the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus, Switzerland, maisonhas been a home since its founding in 1875. The collection’s mission was to offer contemporary interpretations of past timepieces that defined their respective eras. Then he fell asleep for four years – until now.
Limited to 250 pieces, [RE]The Master02 Selfwinding ($47,200) channels the avant-garde spirit of the burgeoning space age, when people envisioned a limitless future and designers explored their imaginations to redefine architecture, interiors, fashion and, yes, watches.
In the 1960s, Audemars Piguet produced several models inspired by the Brutalist architectural movement of the post-war era with angular geometric shapes devoid of ornamentation.
“Between 1959 and 1963, Audemars Piguet created more than 30 asymmetrical models, most of which were produced in fewer than 10 pieces,” said Sebastian Vivas, director of heritage and museum at Audemars Piguet, in a news release. “[RE]Master02 is a fantastic opportunity to revive this forgotten golden age.”
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The original 1960 model 5159BA was produced in seven pieces, one of which is on display today at the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet. Its 27.5mm asymmetric rectangular yellow gold case frames a distinctively modernist segmented dial.
For its revival, Audemars Piguet increased the case dimensions to 41 mm in the brand’s sand gold, a new alloy launched earlier this year. It consists of gold, copper and palladium for a warm look that evokes sand dunes, hence the name.
The asymmetrical rectangular case is cut with facets and sharp corners, as well as extended integrated lugs to create a high-impact visual statement reminiscent of brutalism. The matte, satin-finish case follows the gentle contours of the sapphire crystal at 3 o’clock, earning it the nickname “The Edge.” Two years of research and development were invested in the design of the beveled crystal to ensure water resistance to 30 meters.
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The designers combined the sand gold case with a ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ dial. The split dial combines 12 individually machined triangular shapes in various sizes with a linear satin finish that enhances the play of light. The segments are separated by gold-tone galvanized sandblasts that intersect in the center. The gold lines of different lengths serve as hour markers so they can tell the time.
The sand gold case back reveals caliber 7129, an ultra-slim movement with hour and minute functions but no date to preserve the purity of the dial design.
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The 2.8mm-thick movement is based on caliber 7121, launched in 2022 for ultra-thin Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ models. Its new construction has a larger barrel, generating a minimum 52-hour power reserve, powered by the bi-directional winding of the oscillating weight in 22-karat sand-gold color gold.
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Affirming its high horological credentials, Caliber 7129 features a range of hand finishes including Côtes de Genève, round satin, snail, sunrays, round grain and polished corners.
By combining vintage design with cutting-edge watchmaking technology, Audemars Piguet aims to appeal to both vintage watch collectors and next-generation watch enthusiasts looking for something extraordinary.
